Some clients have reported weld failures with Hydraulic Cylinder MD-1.500-2613 (PN: 84675).
To improve the design of our cylinder and add more safety factor moving forward, we have modified the weld. The revised weld joint offers higher strength, as well as more joint access for our welders, which means less room for error.
How to Do An Emergency Field Repair
The cylinder manufacturer has recommended the following procedure for field repair. Note: This repair should only be done by an experienced mechanic skilled in welding techniques.
1.Remove weld: The weld should be completely removed to the best of your ability. An angle grinder with a grinding disc will offer quick removal of the old weld.
2.Weld Prep: Grind the bottom of the clevis untill you have a flat surface. Be sure not to remove clevis material, as this will change the extended and retracted lengths of the cylinder. You should see a flat on the end of the shaft.
Do not grind into that flat, as that is what sets the length of the cylinder. Only grind on the chamfered edge of the rod. Do not grind past the paint on the rod, as this will damage the seals and render the cylinder useless. Grind until you have approximately a 45° angle chamfer around the rod.
3.Alignment: When welding the clevis back on, try to align the center of the pin holes with the center of the rear clevis pin hole and the center of the rod.
4.Welding: It would be preferred to weld using GMAW (MIG) indoors. A minimum of 26 Volts and a wire feed speed of 375 inches per minute will give proper heat-input. If welding with SMAW (Stick), try to maintain a minimum of 250 amps. Weld until the chamfer is completely full. Then, add a 3/16” fillet around the rod and clevis.
Do not Quench: These parts should not be quenched (dunked in water/snow) after being welded, as the weld may become brittle and crack.
For further help, please contact Sales at L&C Enterprises Toll-Free: 866.786.1009 or Office: 906.786.1008.